“Can you make me a jacket?” Says my 26 year old son .
Sewing has been on complete hold for almost 2 months. Our bedroom has been completely refurbished and decorated- which has meant that whilst new wardrobes etc were being done ALL the contents of the room have been stacked in my sewing room ( plus the garage and conservatory). So access to everything has been impossible.
But that question , and the start of moving stuff back has kickstarted the sewing again.
Of course , it’s never that simple. He doesn’t want any old jacket- he wants to be a rebel without a cause. His vision is a red jacket that sort of crosses over between his black H&M jacket and the James Dean red bomber jacket – in red of course
Luckily ( and incredibly) given a self imposed ( or is it husband imposed) fabric buying ban , there was a piece of red fabric in my stash! About 30 years old I think – not quite James Dean era, but suitable.
Then it got difficult. I have made very few men’s clothes, and therefore do not have many patterns. Easy I thought, as I started the online search. I couldn’t believe how few menswear patterns are put there. Of course it’s even more difficult when son knows EXACTLY what he wants.
So in the end I have bought 2 Lekala patterns and plan to do a mash up. I haven’t tried this brand before, but I’ve put in his measurements, ordered the PDFs and spent hours assembling the 2 jacket patterns.
They seem HUGE to me – well I am used to sewing size 8/10 for a 5′ 2″ female dresses and he is a 40″ chest , 6 foot male.
So the plan is to take the basic shape from Lekala 6057 and add the facing from this pattern too ( Lekala 6006 is lined) Collar and pockets will also be taken from Lekala 6006
First step has been to amend the patterns
I have added height to the front of the Lekala 6057 bomber jacket to match Lekala 6006 and incorporate the shirt collar.
Sleeves have been lengthened on Lekala 6057 to allow for changes to the cuff.
This has been cut out as a toile in a rather fetching yellow patterned old sheet
First try on last night has indicated that fit is generally not too bad- but the sleeves are too baggy ( I think Lekala 6057 is designed to have pleats in the sleeves to be inserted into ribbed cuffs) . So next stage is to try to remove some of this excess on the toile and adjust the sleeve pattern. I will also be experimenting with the facing from Lekala 6006 to see how to add this to my mashed pattern.
Also other changes
-can I redraft / change the shoulder / sleeve? At the moment the shoulder is slightly more of a dropped line than sitting on the shoulder. Not too sure how difficult this is going to be.
– Also ( and hopefully easier) slight reduction in width of the main jacket body ( taking in the side seams) and replacing the bottom gathered bomber style of Lekala 6057 with a straight non gathered band like his H&M jacket- both slightly easier requests than the sleeve/ shoulder change I hope!
-reduce the height of the collar and change the angle of the point slightly to resemble H&M jacket
So all in all a good start I think but plenty to do!
One comment, I have sewn quite a bit over the years and my thoughts on the Lekala patterns are that the instructions are not for beginners! They are very sparse, no images and there has been quite a bit of head scratching. It has helped that I have made the Rigel bomber in the past but I definitely have needed the toile to figure things out.
Next installment will hopefully be sooner than 2 months and whilst I originally hoped it would feature the red jacket in progress, realistically with the number of changes another toile is required. Just hope I can get my son to do the final modelling!