If you recently took part in The Sewing Weekender you may have seen the session on how to hack the well loved Zadie jumpsuit pattern into a wrap dress. Bizarrely a little while earlier I had decided to do this myself – and decided that for the weekend itself I was going to make another one….
The first hack was the result of a request from my daughter in law for a maxi dress based on the following RTW inspiration
So the search was on – a fabric which had a border print and plenty of drape plus a pattern for a wrap dress.
The fabric I found was from The Textile Brothers. They had a number of suitable options . Nikki chose the one she wanted, and I of course weakened and bought some for myself too…
I spent some time looking though my pattern stash but a lot of the wrap dress patterns were for a knit fabric, or didn’t have the grown on sleeves I wanted. Plus I knew I needed a simple skirt to utilise the border print. I also wanted the pattern to be easy to adjust for sizing. ( Nikki is very petite )
Which is when I thought of the Zadie jumpsuit I had made myself one sometime ago so had an idea how to adjust sizing (the bodice is loose fitting so no complicated armhole adjustments/darts etc) and I could see no reason not to attach a simple set of gathered rectangles to make the border skirt.
I redrafted the bodice to take it down in size slightly, using the indications of where it was sized down for larger sizes as indicators of where to remove volume/ adjust sizing. I also changed the front neckline slightly to make this straighter as I wanted to use the border print along the front bodice wrap as a feature.
I toiled and trialed the fit on Nikki, adjusting the placement of the front bodice pleats to sit correctly.
The skirt was cut as 3 rectangles with the width being 1.5 times the width of the waist piece of the bodice and then simply gathered to fit the waist .And I added in seam pockets.
As you an see the placement of the pattern across the bodice, the hem and the tips of the ties worked well.
Following the success of the hack, I decided to make myself a midi version too during The SewingWeekender. I decided to use some stash fabric for this one – a satiny feel polyester border print purchased in January 2018 from Adam Ross Fabrics ( now Pound Fabrics) for the princely sum of £3 for 3 metres on a sale.
The process was identical, wIth one exception.I made a mistake cutting out the front bodice pieces. My mistake – the pattern piece I had drafted wasn’t quite long enough on the sleeve ( lack of paper ) and in the interim I forgot about the requirement to add a bit on when cutting ( lesson – write the instructions on the pattern piece in future) . To solve this I have added a cuff- which I actually love! It gives the sleeve a bit of weight which helps it fall well.
I haven’t used the border on the bodice this time as experimenting with some draping convinced me that it was just a bit much with this particular pattern.
I got a fair way along with making the dress on the weekend – enough that I could put it on the Sunday . The sun was shining brightly which makes the dress look a lot brighter yellow than it is in real life!
Since then I have finished all the hems etc so here is the final version without the bright sunlight !